Quote from: oldtools on December 01, 2012, 09:40:14 PM PutnamEco & BDFan, your post on SKILSAW, you were looking for information on manufactures date based on Ser#. To get specific product information such knowing how to date your models, please contact our Customer Service Team between the hours of 7 a.m. Thanks for reaching out! 2012 marked the 75th anniversary of the MAG-77 Worm-Drive SKILSAW. Please click the following link to complete our online customer satisfaction survey: We are interested in your feedback regarding your email experience. Please write back if there is anything further that I can assist you with.įor additional information, please visit our web site at Don’t forget to order your Genuine Skil replacement parts on-line at and if you need some help, our live chat representatives will be happy to assist you with your order or any questions you may have! one-man portability, easy maintenance and repair, the D&L 180EM portable. Based on the serial number, you have a Type 5 model 77 saw. Turner Mills Model 36 uses a 13 (early models) and 132 (later models) blade. I sent a Email to Liisa, Skil Customer Service replied, below is a copy of the Email discussion FYI. PS: If all you want is the switch, then I would go with the site provided by "aghcollect", as it looks like a good source.Ĭreate an account or login in order to post a comment.PutnamEco & BDFan, your post on SKILSAW, you were looking for information on manufactures date based on Ser#.
When you call them, ask for customer service.
Then they emailed a copy of the original parts diagram for my 1940's #77. I did this, and they nailed my saw down to the first and last years and month cf production. Has this handle on your saw been modified? To find it's age, you will need to find as many numbers on it as you can, such as serial numbers, and contact skil with the link I'm providing you below. Yours looks like it could be that old, except for the handle. The first #77 skilsaw was introduced in 1937. I appreciate the advice and will let you know if it's fixed. When I went to get supplies to work on it, an electric motor tech said that the switches are usually dirty and the contacts worn. I find the saw easier to control than any other I've used. If I hold on to both handles, torque is no problem. If it shorted out there, the switch should still be good. section of you hardware & buy a small can of "Liquid Insulation" (or something like that) & coat the terminals. Separate the terminals you soldered, even it you have to file out a little solder. If you intend trying to sell it then perhaps it is better for parts. If you intend keeping it to use no price is too much. Pretty common saw and you need to weigh the part cost against the value of the finished product. Take my word.have a strong wrist when you pull the trigger. Very popular if you are doing post and beam construction.
They actually require gear oil to keep them running. Try this place - the same type switches may have been used in different models but they show diagrams and descriptions
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